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Cu Chi Tunnels & War Remnants Museum: Visiting Vietnam’s Past
For traveller Paul McGoran, a trip to the Cu Chi tunnels and the War Remnants Museum in Vietnam revealed not only the country’s most recent dark past but also a brighter future.
Disclaimer: Traveller stories published on this website do not necessarily reflect the opinion of South East Asia Backpacker.
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A Visit to Vietnam’s Cu Chi Tunnels
Prior to arriving in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) we knew that the Cu Chi tunnels were something we wanted to experience. We booked a tour there with Kim Travel, at the cost of 380,615 VND per person (approx. $15USD), this included the entrance tickets and water on the bus. The tour began with us being picked up near our hotel, followed by an hour’s bus journey to our first stop. During this journey, our guide gave us some information and history about the Cu Chi tunnels and the Vietnam War, including one of the worst aspects of the war: Agent Orange, a chemical weapon deployed by the Americans to not only kill whomever it affected but also destroy the land itself.
Opening Times and Entrance Fees 🎟️
The entrance fee to the Cu Chi Tunnels is around 90,000–110,000 VND (approx. $3.50–4.30USD). The tunnels are open daily from 7 am to 5 pm.
Our first stop was labelled as 15-minute ‘break time’ on the itinerary. Rather than just a toilet and refreshment break, the bus stopped off at ‘Handicapped Handicraft’ in the town of Cu Chi itself, and a smaller second tour of the workplace began. Going around the factory you are shown how the workers create pieces of artwork (amongst other things) using eggshells. It is a very delicate and intricate process but the end results are very impressive.
All of the workers at the business had been affected by Agent Orange in some way, usually in the form of a physical disability in the hands or legs. The jobs at the factory gave the workers both financial income and a purpose in life to help them overcome their physical and/or mental handicaps. The work produced there was stunning but with it comes a higher cost. Supposedly 60% of all profits go directly to the workers themselves, and while I cannot confirm that fully, one would hope that it does. After our time there was up we headed off to the tunnels.
Ben Dinh or Ben Duoc? 🤔
The tunnels can be seen at two locations within the district of Cu Chi: Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc. Both offer similar experiences, but Ben Duoc is considered more authentic. Ben Dinh is closer to HCMC so most tours will take visitors there, but travelling the additional 15 km to Ben Duoc is worth it if you want a less touristy experience.
The Cu Chi tunnels themselves were fascinating, showcasing how the Vietnamese not only fought but lived during their war with the American forces. Simple, barbaric, and psychologically brutal (spoiler: the Vietnamese loved smearing faeces on pretty much everything), the traps were very interesting to see. Throughout the tour one of the main things that stood out was just how creative the Vietnamese were. From refashioning parachutes into hammocks, and creating sandals from tyres that gave the impression they were walking in a different direction, the imagination and resourcefulness is incredibly impressive.
A couple of areas have been slightly modified for tourists. There is a widened (yet still fairly small) opening to the secret tunnels where you can get your obligatory photo disappearing down while holding the lid, and there is also a shooting range that we visited during the latter half of the tour. You can also experience walking through the tunnels themselves with the tunnels becoming narrower the further you go into them.
Our tour guide, Bao, was utterly fantastic. He incorporated personal stories involving a family member who had not only fought in the war but had actually lived in the tunnels as well, bringing a personal spin to the whole experience.
Visiting Via Tour or Independently 🗣️
It is possible to visit the Cu Chi tunnels independently. Both sites can be reached by public bus (from Ho Chi Minh Bus Terminal, aka Saigon Bus Station, in District 1) or taxi (Grab is the easiest option). Visiting independently means you can go at any time you choose and avoid the crowds. You can also spend as much time as you like at each location. Tours are convenient and a good option for travellers who like to have all logistics arranged for them. Organised trips usually include a guided tour of the tunnels although independent visitors can engage a guide onsite if desired. Cost-wise, an independent visit by public bus is the most budget-friendly option. Travelling by taxi is likely to cost more than the price of a tour, so tours are more cost effective for solo travellers whereas groups may find it worthwhile to split the costs of a taxi.
Exploring the War Remnants Museum
Located in Ho Chi Minh City itself, the War Remnants Museum hosts a mixture of outdoor and indoor exhibits. The museum itself does not focus solely on the war with America, it also provides a backdrop and information regarding the First Indochina War, providing a good value-for-money ratio.
Opening Hours and Entrance Fees 🎟️
The War Remnants Museum is open every day from 7.30 am to 5.30 pm (including Tet and other public holidays). Entry costs 40,000 VND (approx. $1.60USD).
As with most experiences in Southeast Asia, you could book a guide for the museum, but given the information is clearly marked out it is most certainly not a necessity. As you progress up the museum you start to encounter photographs and stories from the war with America. A lot of these are very graphic, with multiple different photographs of dead and/or dismembered corpses. The full brutality and horror of war is showcased here, making it an unpleasant but vital experience.
Going to the War Remnants Museum after the Cu Chi Tunnels tour added an extra layer that would not have existed by going there first, especially the Agent Orange room (which I should clarify is not a room dedicated to Donald Trump). The room is quite harrowing to experience with photos and videos of Vietnamese people that had been born with birth defects due to the chemical. The country is still dealing with the fallout of this, and sadly will be for a long time to come. The number of photos and videos of Agent Orange victims is harrowing, especially when you take into account that this is but a small snapshot of those that have been, and continue to be affected by it.
What comes across in the room is the Vietnamese people’s love, strength and philosophy. Rather than a feeling of bitterness and resentment, the feeling is instead one of positivity and hope. Many pictures showcase those affected being cared for by their family, all with smiles on their faces. Even in the worst of times there is something to be grateful for.
Getting to the War Remnants Museum 🚶
The War Remnants Museum is centrally located in HCMC, on the edge of District 3 and District 1, and is reachable on foot for those staying in the heart of the city. It is also easily reached by public bus (lines 14, 06 or 28) or by motortaxi.
From a Dark Past to a Bright Future
The trip to the Handicrafts shop was a small example of the positive and inspiring approach that the Vietnamese take. Here we have a country that takes those affected by what can only be referred to as war crimes and champions them rather than shunning or devaluing them. The emphasis on family, community, sharing what you have, and living in the here and now is one that we can and should learn from.
At the end of our tour at the Cu Chi tunnels, Bao shared with us a personal family story from the war. The story was quite horrific to hear, yet he explained that while bad things happen, their philosophy is that a new day always comes. He told us plainly that he was proud to be Vietnamese and thankful for his family, his work, and for what he has in life. Coming from Western Europe that felt quite alien, not so much the family aspect but the rest.
Now more than ever we are seeing bleaker and bleaker news popping up. Factor in never-ending rises to our cost of living and it is hard to see much positivity in the world at times. Coming to Vietnam however, has changed that. Thailand may be referred to as “The Land of Smiles” but I truly believe that title should go to the Vietnamese. Alongside Vietnam we have spent time in Thailand and Cambodia. The people in all countries were lovely. However, it has been in Vietnam where the native kindness, happiness, and community spirit has been most visible.
One night while walking down the street, a security guard stopped me and asked where I was from. There was no ‘Hello’ or anything before it, just a stranger coming up and asking me that question. In the UK that would then most likely lead to a violent altercation, here it is just friendly genuine curiosity. After explaining that I was from Scotland we proceeded to have a friendly chat, well, as much as we could chat given I can barely speak English never mind Vietnamese.
I have never encountered so many smiling faces and people who will happily greet you as you walk down the street. My partner and I both caught quite a bad case of food poisoning while we visited Can Tho. We were staying in a homestay, and the woman who owns it was beyond kind. She purchased us medication, brought us water, and cooked rice for us. On a surface level at least, there is a lot of joy in the life of the Vietnamese and this is perhaps the most foreign aspect of being here. If you can bring anything home with you from Vietnam, don’t bring chopsticks or rice hats, bring back some happiness and sense of community.
Have you visited the Cu Chi Tunnels or War Remnants Museum? Tell us about your experience in the comments.
Paul McGoran | Map Move McGoran
After a mid-life crisis at 31, Paul packed up his life and set off into the world. Starting with Central Europe, the Balkans, and now Southeast Asia, he spends most of his days baffled and bewildered, bumbling along from one shambles to another.
