28 best hotels in the Maldives, from romantic hideaways to the most beautiful overwater villas

Best for: a boutique experience

Huvafen Fushi is a heavenly alcove of a property that sets the standard in personalised service. What’s more? It’s so far removed from the real world that it’s simply impossible not to feel at ease. We arrive by speedboat from Male, and are welcomed by a host of smiling staff armed with cold towels and refreshing welcome drinks, after being chaperoned through a bamboo-swathed tunnel and along a sandy path to our beach villa, which is complete with not one but two private pools and a stretch of silky sand that leads to the ocean. There are other guests here, but it feels like we have the island to ourselves.

The main beachfront restaurant is buzzy enough, though, filled with a mix of clientele that share one thing in common: we’ve all stumbled across this golden find among a sea of hotels in the Maldives, and we’re feeling smug about it. There are only a few rooms here, and I’m told it’s to ensure each guest’s experience can be perfectly tailored.

By day, we swim in the pool and book excursions out to sea. On our first night, we’re led to a private table in a sunken alcove in the sand, directly in front of a chef who preps a Sri Lankan tasting menu under a starlit sky. As we order our nightcap, an enormous projector appears as if from nowhere, ready to play a film of our choosing if we want to laze here post-feast. On our final night, we follow a trail down to the underwater spa, which has been transformed into a private dining space. We’re introduced to our chef, who talks us through the menu as sharks and tropical fish swim past us at eye level. For the kids, a tiny table and chairs of their own, giant Duplo blocks and colouring sets await them, and silver-plattered fish fingers and chips arrive the minute we walk through the doors. This is somewhere we’ll never forget, and a far cry from my expectations of what a holiday in the Maldives might be. It’s unique, characterful and small enough to make you feel at home. There’s a reason why Huvafen Fushi’s returning guest rate is so high. Sarah Leigh Bannerman