7 best small, affordable hotels in Greece

Each summer, the Saronic island of Hydra swells with a growing number of pilgrims, lured by its postcard good looks and burgeoning arts scene. But one hotel, set just back from its harbourfront, remains steadfastly the same: the Miranda. Set in a fine Hydriot mansion dating back to 1810, the Miranda has been hosting an illustrious cast of guests since the golden age of Hydra in the Sixties, with the likes of Leonard Cohen and Melina Mercouri passing through. It is still presided over by its namesake matriarch, Miranda, now in her Nineties, and has barely changed inside, so that it is a little like staying in a time capsule. Pick one of the two bedrooms on the upper floor with ornate Venetian ceiling frescoes and private terraces, so that you can wake up with morning views that overlook the amphitheatrical sweep of Hydra town. Days start with breakfast in the hotel’s very pretty, jasmine-scented garden before setting off on foot (the island is car-free) to explore the island’s swimming spots, before lunch at Pefkaki. After sundowners at Hydronetta, it is time for a quick shower and change at the Miranda, before dinner at Ostria and a nightcap at L’Americano bar, which is helpfully stumbling distance from home.

Anemomilos, Folegandros

Greece’s Cycladic islands are not short of towering views, but the cliff-clinging Anemomilos in romantic Folengandros still feels exceptional. Built by hand over the course of three years in the 1990s, upon the ruins of the island’s only windmill (hence the name), by its current owner, Dimitris Patelis, this humble, whitewashed beauty will have you reaching for every superlative in the book. Set at the edge of the island’s towering chora, each of the hotel’s balconies is cantilevered over the 1,000 feet drop to maximise its magnificent, panoramic views of the surrounding Aegean and the nearby island of Sikinos. Still run by Dimitris, alongside his wife Cornelia and their daughter Diana, Anemomilos is all about experiencing true Greek filoxenia through the lens of simple Cycladic interiors that don’t detract from the views. From the hotel, is an easy walk into the narrow, cobblestone streets of town to mooch around its kafenios, tavernas and shops — or take the winding path even further up to the Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) for magnificent sunset views. You will need a car to explore the rest, such as the beautiful beach of Agios Nikolaos and the nearby fish taverna of Papalagi. Bring comfortable walking shoes for this island.