36 Hours in the Cotswolds Without a Car

Today I want to bring you my itinerary for spending 36 hours in the Cotswolds without a car. The Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is one of my favorite places to travel in the English countryside. From pretty towns and villages to scenic walks and fluffy sheep, there’s plenty to get excited about (I’m not the only one who’s excited to see sheep, right?). I’m here now and I can’t wait to show you how to visit the Cotswolds without driving. I’ve included a map, too.

36 Hours in the Cotswolds Without a Car

My itinerary for the Cotswolds will show you a great place to base yourself in the area and give you the freedom to explore without wheels. From a historic market town to stunning views and a beautiful walk, it has all the things I love about this part of Britain.

You can adjust the itinerary to fit your interests and travel style, but I hope it gives you a solid overview of how much you can do in the region if you have a couple days and you don’t want to drive.

I spent a lot of time planning this itinerary, and I hope all the work I put into it helps you plan a great trip of your own. If you don’t want the hassle of traveling independently, I recommend going on a guided tour with GetYourGuide. You can book their Cotswolds tours here. I’ve done many of them, and I can personally vouch for how good they are.

Where to Stay in the Cotswolds

There are plenty of great places to stay in the Cotswolds. Whether you want to base yourself in a hotel, self-catering cottage, B&B, or pub with rooms, the area has a range of accommodation to choose from.

On this trip I’ve been given a complimentary stay at The Stroud Hotel. This beautiful property is right in the heart of a pretty town with direct rail access from London.

I love The Stroud Hotel’s stylish decor, buzzing ground-floor restaurant, and elegant guest rooms. My suite even has a freestanding bathtub in the living room. It’s everything I’d hoped for, and it makes a great base for exploring the Cotswolds. If that appeals, you can book a room here.

Day 1

I start my itinerary for 36 hours in the Cotswolds at Paddington station in London. From here it’s less than 90 minutes by rail to the town of Stroud.

Stroud

This market town in Gloucestershire lies at the meeting point of the Five Valleys. It’s known for its industrial past (it was once a hub for textile production), hilly streets, and independent spirit.

Stroud is a peaceful place popular with visitors who come to admire its beauty, take in the views, and walk around the surrounding countryside. There’s a famous farmers’ market here on Saturdays, too.

I alight at Stroud station at 10am and walk a few short steps to drop my bag off at The Stroud Hotel. From there I head off to explore the town for the morning.

As I do, I discover a place packed with everything from vintage shops to cool cafes. As I explore everywhere from the high street to Russell Street and London Road, I fall in love with everything from Stroud Bookshop to home goods boutiques and hidden wine shops.

Brunch

Soon rain begins to fall. I take cover in The Yard Cafe & Kitchen, a bohemian cafe where I settle in at a table by the window and enjoy a comforting brunch of bubble & squeak.

It’s the perfect place to cozy up and dodge the drizzle, and everything from the food to the staff is a delight.

Stroud

When the rain lets up, I continue exploring the town. There are lots of lanes and passageways to meander down, not to mention views from the tops of the hills.

As I walk, I stumble upon a covered arcade called the Five Valleys Shopping Centre. In it is a food hall with lots of delicious looking vendors. From British favorites to international cuisine, there’s plenty to tempt the taste buds.

There’s also Home of Vintage. It brings together Gloucestershire’s finest vintage, retro, and pre-loved traders under one roof. With an array of fashion, antiques, upcycled furniture, vinyl records, and handmade goods, it’s the biggest vintage space in the region.

Hotel

The rain starts up again in the afternoon, and I use it as an excuse to check into my room at The Stroud Hotel. My corner Butterfly Suite is spacious and bright, and I love everything from the pretty decor to the sitting area and views.

Dinner

When evening comes, I head to dinner at a local restaurant called Juliet. I’ve read great things about it, and I’m excited to try the French cuisine here. It’s the sister restaurant of The Woolpack pub in Slad, where I once enjoyed a great lunch on a trip to nearby Painswick.

I arrive just as the restaurant opens, and I’m seated in a corner. It’s so dark I have to move the table over to see my food, and it makes me wonder (not for the first time) why so many restaurants give solo diners the worst tables even when there’s nobody else in the room.

Things look up when the menu comes. There are plenty of tempting things on it, and I opt for the cavatelli pasta with cime di rapa and Pecorino. It’s good, if a bit drowning in oil.

I’d read an article in which a journalist said Juliet’s tarte tatin was “one of the best I have ever demolished,” so I can’t help ordering it for dessert. I’m not sure I’m enough of a tarte tatin connoisseur to make such a bold statement myself, but it’s certainly delicious.

Day 2

The next morning my 36 hours in the Cotswolds continue with breakfast at The Stroud Hotel. With a series of dining rooms and a tempting menu, it’s as alluring as country hotel breakfasts get.

After grazing on a croissant from the buffet, my main dish of eggs Royale goes down a treat. I wash it down with a pot of coffee, and it sets me up well for a big day of exploring.

Stratford Park

If the first day of my trip was dedicated to exploring the town center, the second is focused on getting out into the surrounding area. It’s a beautiful cloudless day, and I start by walking over to Stratford Park.

This impressive green space spans 56 acres (22.6 hectares). It features everything from a museum to an arboretum, woodland, and miniature railway. I spend time walking around the grounds, taking in the lake, and enjoying being surrounded by nature.

Soon I come across the Museum in the Park. Dating back to the 19th century, the building was once owned by Joseph Watts, a Stroud brewer.

Originally called Stratford House, the free museum is now home to a collection of over 4,000 objects that tell the story of the people and landscape of the Stroud District.

I spend some time exploring the museum and learning about the history of Stroud (did you know the world’s first mechanical lawnmower was invented here?). Afterwards I explore the garden out back before discovering more of the park.

Canal Walk

When I’m done, I stroll over to the Stroudwater Navigation for a big walk. Dating back to the 18th century, this historic canal was built to link Stroud to the River Severn. It’s been lovingly restored in recent years, and today it’s a popular place to walk.

I start by popping into the Cotswold Canals Trust Visitor Centre, where I pick up a map and get advice from the staff. They tell me to go west towards Ebley and Stonehouse.

I hop onto the towpath and start my walk. It’s flat and easy, not to mention scenic with the canal being next to me. As I go, I take in stunning trees, pretty countryside, historic mills, and beautiful reflections.

I walk all the way to Ryeford before time obligates me to retrace my steps. On the way back to Stroud, I stop for a late lunch at a canalside restaurant called Kitsch Coffee and Wine Bar. A plate of halloumi goes down a treat, and soon I’m off again.

2.5 hours after I started my walk, I arrive back in town. I pick up my bags from The Stroud Hotel and walk over to the train station for my trip back to London.

36 Hours in the Cotswolds

Just under 90 minutes later, I arrive at Paddington station. I’ve had an amazing trip, and I’m glad I’ve added Stroud to the ever-growing list of Cotswolds itineraries I’ve planned and experienced. I hope this blog post has inspired you to come here, too.

Cotswolds Itinerary Map

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