My favourite homestay: a contemporary take on a traditional cottage with spectacular views of the Connemara coast

Horseshoe-shaped Dog’s Bay is one of the loveliest beaches in Connemara (perhaps even in Ireland), with more than a mile of white sand, given its pearlescent colour by finely ground seashells. Beloved of hardy sea swimmers and dog walkers, it’s a few minutes’ drive from the fishing village of Roundstone, which buzzes with second-homers during the summer months but is gloriously deserted when I visit on a beautifully clear January weekend.

I’m here to check out Brandy & Soda House, a modernist reimagining of a traditional cottage in a knockout setting in the elemental landscape. The surrounding patchwork of tiny fields is crisscrossed with stone walls covered in moss that looks as strokeable as velvet. Spindly trees, bare in winter, guard the boundaries like Giacometti sculptures. The views are what give this place its wow factor; the south-facing house catches sunrise and sunset, and during my stay the early morning sky is streaked with candyfloss clouds; while the end of the day blazes orange, the distant shapes of the Aran islands blurring on the horizon.

The large windows look out over incredible sea views

Kelvin Gillmor

This is a beach house in the plushest sense, with a hot tub overlooking the bay for warming up after dips in the crystal-clear sea (Dog’s Bay is a two-minute drive), and cosy robes, fluffy towels and slippers provided. Dogs are made to feel very welcome – there’s a dog hook and bowl in the entrance hall, and a bed set up by the large cream-stone fireplace; plus lots of doggie portraits on the walls. A soaring 100ft wall of glass frames the view from the pitch-roofed living/dining space and two master bedrooms, which each have walk-in wardrobes and large bathrooms with deep tubs looking out to the sea (soak and stargaze on a clear night). With a fully kitted out kitchen and a table that seats 10, this is a spot to book with family or friends and cook up big feasts that rumble on for hours. The kids’ room can sleep four, with a bunk bed that fits three and another bed reached by a little ladder, plus toys and books to keep mini visitors entertained. For those inevitable rainy days, there’s a home-cinema-style art TV (set up with Netflix) and an electric Yamaha piano that seems to be calling out for singalongs.