32 best Covent Garden restaurants, tried-and-tested by our London team

Years ago, when I first caught wind that Balthazar, one of New York City’s most iconic restaurants, had a London outpost, I wasn’t sure what to think. I’ve always had a bit of a mantra that a great thing can only be great once, or rather, in one place. That said, as its equally characterful restaurateur, Keith McNally, is both British-born and, from what I gather, sincerely cares about the soul of his numerous institutions (if you don’t already follow him on Instagram, do), I should have trusted this Covent Garden brasserie would be nothing short of fantastic from the get-go. Like its twin across the pond, London’s Balthazar attracts both fancy and casual diners: couples, families, colleagues, and above all, friends. While tucked into red leather banquettes beneath gigantic, aged mirrors scribbled with specials, you can order most Parisian-style classics – and expect them to be good. The most lauded dish is steak frites for a reason, but my top two recommendations are the beef striploin tartare and the moules marinières in a white wine and cream sauce with parsley and shallots. Eating the latter feels like a celebration, whether or not you have a reason for one. When it comes to drinks, opt for a martini (however you take it, they’ll nail it), a full-bodied red like a Pomerol, or a crisp white alongside said moules, or a comfort dish like onion soup or mac and cheese (the best in the city, in my opinion). While it’s a bustling lunch spot, I love the romance of dinner here. At the start of the pandemic, McNally told Vanity Fair, “I believe that restaurants, like plays and films, work best when they create their own world.” Mission accomplished. Tamara Southward

Address: Balthazar, 4 – 6 Russell Street, London WC2B 5HZ
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