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A Short Guide to Theth, Albania
How to Get to Theth
For a village as remote as Theth, it’s become surprisingly accessible in recent years – at least during the summer months. The once-notorious mountain road from Shkodër is now sealed all the way to the valley, which means you no longer need a 4×4 to make the journey. Still, the road is narrow, winding, and prone to weather-related issues, so a bit of planning is essential.
From Shkodër
Theth is most commonly reached from Shkodër, the gateway city to the Albanian Alps. During the summer season (roughly mid-May to early October), daily shared minibuses run the route in both directions. There used to only be one per day, but they’ve increased frequency quite a bit in the last year or two.
· Departures at 6.20am, 7am and 1.30pm
· Typically cost around 1,500 lek / €15 per person
· Previously only available to book via accommodation or tour agencies but can now be easily booked online
· Take around three hours depending on stops, weather, and road conditions
If you’re travelling from Shkoder to Theth outside peak season, organised transport becomes harder to find. Your best bet is to arrange a private transfer through your guesthouse – expect to pay around €70 to 100 per vehicle, depending on group size and availability. Alternatively, this option is available on GetYourGuide.
By Tour
Given the potential logistical nightmares of visiting this part of Albania, it’s become increasingly popular to visit Theth as part of an organised tour.
Day Tours | If you’re based in Shkoder, this is our top pick for a day tour, but this option that departs from Tirana may suit some better (just be aware that you’ll spend more time in the bus if setting off from the capital) . Both are highly-rated.
Multi-Day Tours | As we’ve said earlier, the main reason to head this far north is for the incredible hiking, therefore – if you’re able – we’d hihgly recommend picking a muti-day tour which folds in a few hiking trail. This five-day option brings you to Komani Lake and the Shala River, then heads to Valbona before hiking to Theth. You then have a day to enjoy the surrounding attractions before transferring back to Shkoder.
Alternatively, this three-day option also has excellent reviews, and would suit those with a little less time to spare.
Driving
As we covered earlier, the drive to Theth is one of the real highlights of visiting the Accursed Mountains and if it fits in with your Albania road trip itinerary, is something we highly recomemmend (unless you’re a really nervous or inexperienced driver).
The road over Qafa e Thores (Thore Pass) is sealed but still steep and narrow, with hairpin bends and sheer drop-offs – not a drive to attempt in bad weather or poor visibility. Don’t be worried about honking gently on blind curves, don’t panic if you have to reverse to let an oncoming vehicle pass, and do try to pull in at some point if there’s a convoy of traffic forming behind you.
Find all our tips for driving in Albania in this post.
Note that the road to Theth is closed in winter due to heavy snowfall, and it’s best to check local updates on conditions in spring or late autumn, as opening/closing dates vary with the weather.
Parking in Theth is limited to small gravel lay-bys and informal spaces unless your guesthouse offers private parking, so do check ahead before arriving.
Top Tip // We recommend looking + booking your car hire in Albania via two aggregators that we use for all our road trips: Rentalcars.com and AutoEurope. It’s a good idea to check prices and availability on both to make sure you’re getting the best deal possible for your dates.
From Valbonë (via the hike)
Many travellers arrive in Theth by completing the Valbonë Pass hike. As mentioned, this one-way trek connects the two valleys, and this route typically involves:
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Travelling from Shkodër to Komani Lake by minibus
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Taking the Komani ferry across the lake
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Continuing by road to Valbonë
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Hiking over the pass to Theth (usually after a night in Valbonë)
It’s a highlight of many people’s Albania itinerary and we’ve written a complete guide to the hike, which includes all the information you need to plan for this route and the hike from Valbonë.