Backpacking Bali: An Alternative Guide

Bali is magical, mystical and mesmerising, but it can also be manic and maddening.  Yes, it is definitely one of the wildest party islands anywhere on the planet, but it also offers some unique and unforgettable experiences. In short, Bali, Indonesia, has something for everyone. Over the years I have noticed it change greatly, some for the better, some not so great.

Now, glitzy shopping malls and raucous bars nestle beside traditional Balinese Hindu temples and all modern amenities and Western goods are available. In certain areas, the traffic is infuriating. No longer do water buffalo roam up beach roads, and thankfully Bali Belly has been greatly reduced due to clean ice deliveries. 

Pollution has greatly increased, but this problem is being addressed with the main beaches being cleaned and cleared every morning. However, in the rainy season a lot of detritus can still be washed up. A five-kilometre sealed path has recently been built at the top of the beaches stretching from Seminyak to Kuta and is lined with cafes, bars and restaurants. 

It can be amazingly cheap, especially away from the tourist-laden areas. After giving my 18-year-old niece some guidance she decided to backpack Bali for a month with $1,600 AUD (approx. $1,050USD). I did not see her, and she returned to Australia five weeks later with $200 AUD ($131USD) still in her back pocket!

I am constantly being asked by nieces and nephews and their friends to point them in the right direction for the ultimate backpacker adventure, their feedback is always illuminating as it is constantly evolving. Bali is my home and local knowledge and contacts are the best, so ditch the guidebooks and delete those bloggers who have been here for three months and let a local take you on a trip, be it the best adventurous experiences, or to places off the beaten track.

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An Alternative Guide to Backpacking Bali 🪷

The Best Time to Visit Bali 🌤️

Due to global warming, the rains are definitely arriving later and are now arriving mid-November. Although the high season is still during school holidays in the West, therefore July to August and Christmas time is when Bali is a full house. Prices go up drastically and the traffic becomes infuriating. May to October is the dry season with low humidity and blue skies. Please be aware that the Balinese monsoon seasons are actually opposite to most other parts of Southeast Asia.

This is also the best time for the ever-popular, world-class surfing that Bali has to offer to come to the fore and which attracts hordes of surf heads. The winds are lighter with constant swells, although in some beaches like Canggu and Jimbaran, the waves are more manageable and are perfect for beginners.

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Where to Stay in Bali 🛏️

Disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. We always write our articles before checking if affiliate links are available.

Bali has accommodation for all types of budgets, even if you are in need of a splurge it need not cost a fortune. Hostels vary very much in price depending on what facilities and quality you desire. Be aware that some hostels are quite high-end and the terms homestay or guest house usually denote a cheaper alternative. The Indonesian term known as Losman is usually of the lowest standard with many local options for this type of accommodation.  

Below is a mixture of some of the perennial accommodation favourites — once just the haunt of the first surf crowd, these properties are still amazing and known to those in the know — and, additionally, a list of some awesome, friendly and fun backpackers hostels. 

In Bali, if you intend on staying for a long period, there are some big discounts to be had, although this involves paying up front.

Hotel Sorga Cottages, Kuta. This legendary, family-run Hotel Sorga, just off Jalan Poppies is in Kuta. Clean, with a nice pool and quirky breakfast, it’s great for budget travellers. It’s three minutes to the beach with a great laundry across the road.

The Honeymoon Guest House, Ubud. Run by an Australian lady on the quiet street Jalan Bisma. Great for yoga with Mr Ketut and cooking classes. Jalan Bisma has some of the most delicious, highest quality and cheapest restaurants in Southeast Asia. There must be over twenty of them, just follow your nose.

The Blue Star Bungalows, Amed. Situated right on the Jemeluk Beach front, (the sun beds regularly get washed away!). Snorkelling equipment is available as the marine life is amazing — there are colourful tropical fish and coral and you often see a humpback whale gliding past. Try the family recipe pork ribs. 

The Puri Garden Hotel and Hostel, Ubud – Has an enormous pool and offers free yoga classes.

Desa Eko Community Farmstay and Yoga, Munduk – Describes itself as a ‘sanctuary for humans to thrive,’ with bamboo rooms and locally sourced organic food and of course yoga and meditation classes.

Black Lava Hostel and Lodge, Kintamani – Perched in the mountains only 15 minutes from the famous Tegallalang Rice Terraces. It gets nice and cool in the evenings.

Surf & Party Hostel Somewhere Else, Canggu – I’ve heard this place is quite a fun, party place. Party music starts late morning and goes on all day and night.

Arya Wellness, Ubud – Female only, this is a great option for women travellers, it’s in a good location in the centre of town with an enchanting garden.

Bali Bobo Hostel, Jimbaran – Nice aircon rooms, shared lounge, outdoor pool and good location if you are a seafood lover as Jimbaran has some of Bali’s best.

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Things to Do In Bali: Getting off the Beaten Path 🌴

For such a small, compact island, Bali is incredibly diverse, with a plethora of unrivalled, unique, and unbelievable things to do and see. The interior, the North and West are a world away from the febrile, frantic tourist venues of the South.

Here are some of the relatively unknown and unusual things to do that are off many visitors’ radar.

West Bali

1. Admire the World’s Most Colourful Fishing Fleet 🛶

At the sedate, unspoilt village of Perancak on the West coast you can witness a fantastical sight of a traditional fishing fleet, not unlike miniature Viking long ships that are painted in every colour of the rainbow. This amazing and delightful sight has been described as the most spectacular fishing fleet on the planet. It lies only a few hours from the bustling tourist hub of the South but could be a world away.

2. Explore West Bali National Park 🏞️

This is Bali’s only national park and a place that, unfortunately, very few visitors know about or come to see, which is a great shame as it is a fantastic place. It is situated on the northwestern point of the island. The habitat is incredibly varied with dry savannah, rainforest, mangroves and acacia scrub. The wildlife is abundant, including endangered species, with wild boar, mouse deer and leopards, just to name a few. A local guide is required.     

3. Volunteer at Kurma Asih Sea Turtle Conservation 🐢

This turtle sanctuary was actually begun by traditional turtle fishermen who realised back in 1997 the severe depletion of all breeds of turtle and an urgent campaign was initiated to save what was left of the species. The staff are trained by WWF in protection and preservation methods. This involves protecting the eggs from predators and eventually releasing the hatched turtles, when they are healthy enough, into the sea. They are always on the lookout for volunteers.

4. Visit Menjangan Island 🦌

This island is part of the national park and is truly a hidden gem. It is situated 5 km from Pejarakan village in the very northwest of Bali. You can wander this unspoilt island where local vendors sell vegetables for you to feed the deer, which roam all over but seem to love the beach. They are not shy and visitors are able to get up close and personal with them. (Menjangan means deer in Balinese.) You may also be able to spot the Myna bird (Bali starling), the national bird of Bali, which has a population of less than 150 in the wild. You will need a guide and a permit to visit, but I can assure you it is an unforgettable experience.  

Central Bali 

5. Join a Miniature Painting Workshop 🎨

In the village of Keliki, 20 minutes from Ubud, you can learn the original art form of miniature painting at Five Art Studio (Threads of Tradition Miniature Keliki Painting Workshops). Miniature painting is characterised by its intricate, detailed brushwork depicting Balinese daily life and legends of the past. Here, under the supervision of a skilled village artist, you will learn how to paint detailed miniature paintings using traditional techniques. You will also learn the history and importance of Keliki style miniature painting, famous for its delicacy and precision, which has a deep connection to Bali’s artistic heritage that has been passed down through the generations.

6. View The Moon of Pejeng 🌕

The Moon of Pejeng is a massive bronze kettledrum, which is the largest bronze-age antiquity in the world. It is housed high in a pavilion at the rear of Pura Penataran Sasih Temple, about 20 minutes west of Ubud in the village of Pejeng. Local legend has it that the drum was once the wheel of a great chariot that carried the moon over the night sky. One night the wheel fell from the heavens landing in a tree at Pejeng. It glowed so brightly it hampered a band of crooks who were trying to steal it. One of them peed on it and this is why it is the colour it is today. Ubud Story Walk, mainly young university students, offer inexpensive, informative tours around the area. Well worth it. 

7. Treat Yourself at Om Ham Retreat and Resort 💆🏻‍♀️

This is a retreat for Balinese healing, yoga, meditation and detox; it is well suited for the wellness junkie. But the reason many people come here is for a chakra massage from Master Ketut Arsana, lifelong expert in ancient Balinese healing wisdom, which he has been practising for over 50 years. When you meet him, you will immediately feel his aura. When my partner goes for a cleansing massage, she tells me it is like getting little electric shocks. Afterwards, she seems to float out and sleeps for three hours during the day, something she never does. It almost makes me want to give up my Bintang beer!

8. Catch a Shadow Puppet Performance at Oka Kartini 🤏🏽

The Wayang Kulit puppet play has been intertwined with Balinese and Indonesian culture for a thousand years. There are many incredible art forms in Bali, but only one has a UNESCO World Heritage status bestowed upon it and that is the Wayang Kulit. Wayang Kulit is a traditional shadow puppet play that tells the story of the Hindu epic The Ramayana. At the Oka Kartini the show is definitely the most authentic I have seen in Bali, so if you are curious about Balinese culture this is an excellent experience. Cultural workshops are offered consisting of dance and costume, gamelan music, kecak monkey chant and shadow puppet making.

9. Watch a Kecak Monkey Dance 🔥

The Kecak Dance, also sometimes known as the Ramayana monkey chant, is a traditional Balinese dance created one hundred years ago by dancer Limbak and famous painter Walter Spies. The most authentic performance is held at Pura Dalem, which is a revered Hindu temple in the very centre of Ubud. The spectacular dance also tells the story of the Ramayana, using a combination of ancient trance dance and chanting meant to ward off evil spirits. The performance features 150 male dancers wearing traditional Balinese sarongs. They sit in circles and chant “cak, cak, cak” rhythmically and it is performed under flaming torchlight. A must see.

North Bali

10. Visit the Village With a Difference on Lake Batur 🌋

Trunyan, or Terunyan, is a Balinese village situated on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, a caldera lake at the bottom of Gunung Batur volcano. The village is the most noteworthy home of the Bali Aga people, who are the original Balinese inhabitants known for their unique funerary customs and ceremonies. Instead of cremation or burial, deceased individuals are placed on the ground within the village’s “boneyard”.  A visit here is an authentic experience that contrasts with pushing your way through the tourist throngs all trying to summit Mount Batur. Sometimes you need to get permission from the village headman to visit.

East Bali

11. Drink Traditional Tuak with Locals in Karangasem 🍻

Tuak is a traditional, mildly alcoholic beverage made from fermented rice or palm sap, and it remains integral to ritual and religious ceremonies. In Bali, a temple inscription from 1011 AD references tuak in the context of ceremonial offerings. Tuak has a bubbly texture and sweet-sour taste, created by the natural fermentation process. It possesses several nutritional benefits and bioactive compounds. Tuak is a symbol of Indonesia’s deep-rooted customs and community spirit, from its integral role in rituals and ceremonies to its place in everyday social gatherings. Enjoying tuak allows visitors to experience a unique tradition of Indonesian heritage while also supporting the preservation of local tradition and livelihoods. It is drunk in local warungs (Balinese cafes), especially in the Karangasem area and any visitor is made to feel very welcome.

12. Discover A Laid-back Town That Has It All 🤿

Amed on Bali’s Northeast coast still seems to be off most visitors’ radar. I can vouch for its splendid isolation, quite often when snorkelling we see a humpback whale glide past in the distance. 

“It is because we are over three hours from the airport that our remoteness has kept us relatively isolated and hidden. Here you can hire a fisherman to take you out on his boat or learn to free-dive. We are the ice bath centre of Bali, which is beginning to become very popular, and, of course, you have the snorkelling and diving. I would estimate 95% of tourists never make it here, most never leaving the bars and their swimming pools.” Mr Ketut, owner of Bali Luxury Divers, Amed

13. Travel Back in Time to the Old Bali ⏳

Sidemen (sometimes spelt Siderman) remains untouched by tourism. Farmers still farm in the old-fashioned way, the pace of life has not changed, and a few Western bohemian artists make it their home. It is out there with a Lord of the Rings surrealness. A peaceful, bucolic region in inner East Bali renowned for its pace of life, stunning rice terraces and lush, incredible vistas, set against the formidable backdrop of the sacred volcano, Mount Agung, Bali’s highest mountain. The other great reason to visit, apart from escaping the maddening crowd, is the chance to eat true Balinese food. Most of the ‘local’  food you eat in Bali will be Javanese. Balinese cuisine is so underrated; it incorporates a wider range of spices and herbs, with attention on fresh ingredients and a balance of sweet, sour, salty, and spicy flavours.

 “Now people have access to internet, they are like sheep, they don’t know the real undiscovered parts of the island. Here in Ubud, [there are] too many tourists, same with the islands like Lembongan. Kuta is now like a sad old lady; everyone goes to Canggu. It’s no wonder with some of the all-night party bars. Lovina in the North is not what it used to be. I think so many backpackers and tourists just get stuck in one place. I would also tell people not to go to the elephant parks, I can see the sadness in the elephants’ eyes when I take tourists there.” Mr Eddie, Airbnb owner and tour guide, when asked which places in Bali have lost their lustre.

Across the Island

14. Find Bali’s Brilliant and Best Beaches 🏖️

I’d love to write about a secret beach, or a hidden beach, but no such thing in Bali exists, but what I do know are the best and least frequented. Sorry, forget DiCaprio in the movie The Beach. If that is what you are after, try Nihiwatu Beach in Sumba or Ora Beach in Maluku. The following Bali beaches are the quietest and most scenic, but their peaceful isolation cannot always be guaranteed.

Balkan Beach is situated on the West coast of Bali, near the mouth of the Balian River.

Pair Putih (white sand), sometimes known as Virgin Beach, is 30 minutes past Candi Desa on the East coast. A pristine beach with coconut palms and shaded warungs for snacks and drinks. 

Suluban Beach near Ulu Wati is a dramatic beach surrounded by limestone cliffs. It’s always best to check the tides before embarking on the steep descent.

Menjangan Beach is part of the West Bali National Park, and for that reason the coral and the marine life have been protected. Large schools of angel fish, totally unafraid, will inquisitively surround you. 

Other beaches worth a mention are Dreamland Beach, Bias Tugel Beach, Pandawa Beach, and Balangan Beach.

15. Hike the Astungkara Way 🥾

‘A new hike through the rice paddies and forested interior of Bali offers a meaningful way to experience Indonesia’s Island of the Gods, without the crowds’, is how none other than National Geographic describe this new hike.

Indeed, it is a very different side to Bali. These trails are an opportunity to connect with nature and the rural Balinese community, uncover ancient knowledge and stay with farmers and their families in their homes. The complete trail is an arduous 10-day, 135-kilometre trek from coast to coast, south to north. But shorter versions, such as the four-day 46-kilometre section or the six-day 77-kilometre section, are available. Whichever one is undertaken, they all blend cultural awareness, natural beauty and mindful practices. Get those hiking boots on!

16. Have an Inexpensive Cruise on a Pelni Ship 🛥️

Pelni is the Indonesian national passenger and cargo shipping company. Its network spans the entire Indonesian archipelago, as a connection between large cities and remote islands. Pelni ferries sail from Bali to destinations like Bima on Sumbawa, Labuan Bajo on Flores, and many other locations in Nusa Tenggara. Bima, Sumbawa would be the shortest route from Bali if you were interested in just a return jaunt. It is a great adventure sailing on them, enabling you to see some remote islands. Even the first-class cabins are ridiculously cheap and include delicious Indonesian food in the dining room. The Pelni offices address in Bali is: Jalan Raya Kuta No.299 Tuban, Kuta, Kec. Kuta, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80361, Indonesia.

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Food and Drink 🍛

I do not know anywhere in Southeast Asia and beyond where the price and quality of food are so outstanding. The international food scene on offer is superb: Italian, Japanese, Indian, French, Mexican, Greek, Chinese and of course local dishes. There are so many choices, but here are some of my all time favourites.

AROUND SEMINYAK AND KUTA

What the Truck – for the best coffee in town, it is attached to a luxury hotel chain, but the prices are crazy cheap and so are their takeaway cocktails. Find it on Jalan Camplung near the entrance to Seminyak Beach.

Lusi beach Warung – for our favourite breakfast in town. It overlooks the crashing surf and has a great menu, great prices and friendly staff. Situated between Seminyak and Kuta Beaches.

Santorini – Amazing Greek food in Kuta, Seminyak and Canggu.

Gateway of India – Best Indian food in Seminyak

Warung Pama – Great Mexican on Jalan Sorga, Kuta.

AROUND UBUD

What is it about Ubud? Check out Jalan Goatama, a real foodie street in the heart of Ubud. 

Japanese – Ramen Dining Kazumi and Ikigai.

Indian – Persona Lounge.

French – Kebun Bistro.

Pomegranate Cafe – The best chilled-out cafe. Take a wonderful walk through the rice fields to this uber laid-back, digital nomad heaven.

EAST BALI

Middle Eastern – The Baby Dragon, Amed.

Balinese – Lihat Sawah, Sidemen.

European – Vincents, Candidasa Beach.

Visit a Nasi Padang restaurant. Nasi Padang is from the city of Padang on the island of Sumatra. It consists of rice served up with a variety of pre-cooked side dishes and is known for its diverse flavours and the eclectic selection of meats, fish, vegetables, and spicy sambals. You only pay for the dishes you consume, they are everywhere and extremely popular with the locals and cost buttons! 

Finally, Bali does the best pork ribs in the world. Try the mind-blowing babi guling.

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Getting Around Bali 🛵

Nowadays, Grab (a ride-hailing app like Uber) is ridiculously cheap and it’s easy to get by using the app. For shorter distances it is easy to get an Ojek, a motorcycle taxi. These guys spend their lives riding bikes and are very adept. Driving or riding a bike in Bali is a totally different experience from the West. I have seen numerous travellers being rushed to hospital after coming off their scooter. With Grab and Ojeks being so cheap it is worth utilising them. If you do hire a bike make sure you have an international licence and valid travel insurance and check on other requirements. The local police love stopping Western tourists on a bike – in Bali there is no corruption, only ‘administrative fees’!

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Safety in Bali ⛑️

The Balinese are reliant on the spendings of tourists, so you are generally made to feel safe, welcome and comfortable.

The Balinese have a wonderful, friendly culture, a mixture of strong Hindu beliefs infused with Buddhism and everything they do is infused with the notion of karma. This notion refers to the principle of cause and effect, where good deeds are rewarded and bad deeds are punished. 

However, in the more built-up tourist parts of the island there is petty crime and annoyances. However, violent crime is almost unheard of as the punishment is severe. The things to be aware of are:

• In certain crowded tourist areas, beware of pickpockets, it is wise to wear a money belt. Bag snatching from the back of motorbikes is on the rise, including when riding a motorbike.  
• Stray dogs can be a nuisance. Rabies, although extremely rare, is still present on the island. The local government has implemented a policy that dogs must be collared, so the problem has been alleviated but it is still present. Seek medical attention if bitten or scratched.
• Never take a free shot or other free alcoholic drinks, even in a reputable establishment, these have resulted in serious injury or even fatalities. 
• Money changers are one of the biggest rip-offs. They have a well-practiced slight of hand. I always use a female money changer or use one of the government-run money changers. Using ATMs is another way to avoid the need to use money changers.
• Never drink the tap water — always use bottled water. Since ice deliveries commenced over ten years ago Bali Belly has greatly diminished.
• In Canggu there has been an increase in more organised crime, especially the selling of narcotics. 
• If you are not used to strong waves in the surf, be careful of the strong rip. Don’t go in under the influence of alcohol. There are several drownings weekly, mainly of Chinese and Japanese tourists who are inexperienced swimmers. There are now Surf Life stations along all the main beaches.

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Getting to Bali ✈️

Many of the world’s major airlines fly to Bali. From Southeast Asia, Air Asia has fares as cheap as $50AUD (approx $33USD). It is possible to get the train through Java, then the ferry to Bali.

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Where to Go Next ➡️

The Gili Islands and Lombok are a short boat ride away. For something different, try a trip to Banyuwangi in East Java, a 30-minute ferry ride from Bali. Better still, in Java, go down to the Big-G, Grajagan, one of the world’s best surf breaks, discovered by a Californian in the seventies as he flew in a jetliner over it. Nearby, there is the Alas Purwo National Park with some rare and endangered species. Just be aware that East Java and Lombok are predominantly Muslim and appropriate dress code, cultural awareness and sensitivity are to be adhered to.

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Getting the Most Out of Bali 🧘🏾‍♀️

Bali does have something for everyone, especially with regards to fitness, fun and food. There are a multitude of gyms and yoga classes. Our favourites are Massas in Ubud and Bali Fitness in Seminyak; they cost under a fifth of what you’d pay in the West. Everything is so much cheaper.

“It’s not just the $100AUD hair colouring our clients rave about, their favourite topic of conversation is about how cheap everything in general is.” Miss Gita, manager of the popular Dhio’s Salon in Seminyak

Everything is different from the West, not just the rain, the colours, the people and the festivals, but in everyday life. Bali is an island of contrasts. You will see the daily offerings of the Canang Sari being given, these offerings express gratitude to the Gods and are given up to maintain balance in the Universe. You will see them being laid even at boisterous pubs and noisy bars, such is the wonderful dichotomy of Bali.

There is no place like it. My best advice is to simply just smile, whatever you do and whatever happens.