How the cross-cultural restaurant crossover became London’s coolest foodie trend

Ultimately, it’s spontaneity, originality and transience that set these collaborations apart. “It’s like a cameo at a concert,” Santiago says. Cynthia makes the same analogy, illustrating the sense of a cultural or entertainment experience being further enriched. I’m reminded of the crossover TV specials from my own youth, like “That’s So Suite Life of Hannah Montana” – the thrill of seeing disparate idols united.

“It’s a moment in time,” Elliot reflects. “Diners can experience names that don’t usually work together, and a one-off menu builds anticipation. People know that it won’t happen too often, because it loses its magic otherwise.”

KOLEleonaora Boscarelli

According to Santiago, the shared excitement and anticipation foster a sense of community for diners. “It’s not like any other day or dinner, you can’t do it all the time, so the atmosphere feels unique, everyone is connected in going in for this limited-time experience.”

It’s exactly this sparkling conviviality that I feel at these events, whether it’s a New York-ified Mayfair hotel or a hip Shoreditch Thai joint welcoming soulful French cooking. Even with such contrasting settings and menus, the rooms are charged with joie de vivre – everyone united in feeling a little bit special, perhaps even a little smug, to have a seat at the (temporary) table.

KOLEleonaora Boscarelli

Some dates for your diary

Quality Wines and Friends – Dara Klein, Sunday 31 August, Boutheina Ben Salem, Sunday 28 September, Melek Erdal, Sunday 26 October