In-Depth Review of Nimmo Bay Resort in B.C., Canada

The Afar take—a rainforest retreat reimagining luxury

I’m snorkeling in the 50-degree waters of British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest, visiting Nimmo Bay Resort on a drizzly summer day. When my head is above the surface, raindrops freckle the deep green water, and the bottom branches of evergreen trees on nearby islands hover above the surface. But when I dive below, I enter an underwater galaxy: starfish in purples and oranges clinging to the rocks like constellations, forked Pacific rockweed waving with the current, barnacles flicking their feathery legs to feed. At one point, my guide, Camellio, stops me to point out a nudibranch, one of those psychedelic sea slugs floating past me like a tiny spacecraft. Later, I swim alongside curious porpoises and sample uni we pluck right out of the sea.

As someone who lives amid the temperate rainforests of North America in Washington State, I’m very familiar with this setting. But on a recent visit with my partner, Nimmo Bay encouraged me to see it from an entirely new perspective by giving me the tools—and the gentle push—I needed to suit up in a thick wetsuit, strap on a snorkel, and dive in.

I wasn’t the only one feeling the magic at Nimmo Bay that weekend: A young couple from Victoria beamed as they recounted that a guide on their forest hike encouraged them to take off their shoes and walk on the mossy forest floor. A chef from Vancouver was there to forage his own seafood and was so inspired that he made appetizers with local ingredients for fellow guests; his young son, who clung to his electronics on our plane ride over, seemed to have forgotten them by the end of their stay.

Nimmo Bay is one of those increasingly rare family-owned and -operated lodges where you’re very likely to bump into the owners during your stay. Proprietors Becky and Fraser Murray, whom we met during cocktail hour on our first night, spend seven months of the year living on-site at Nimmo Bay with their two daughters when they’re not in Victoria or Tofino. Together, they’re constantly dreaming up new ways to help guests commune with the wilderness. Sightings of megafauna like whales and brown bears are a major draw, but my most exciting moments were the unscripted ones, such as my snorkeling excursion, sea-to-table dining, and soaks in floating saunas near quiet stretches of beach, where I spied a lone grizzly emerging from the woods to eat shellfish.

Who’s it for?

Couples, solo travelers, and families looking to get off the grid and connect with nature, whether through a waterfall-side spa treatment, a soak in the floating hot tub, or a foraged tasting menu. Nimmo Bay is less ideal for those looking for an easy-to-reach getaway. Because the lodge is remote, getting there involves a couple of small planes and the better part of a travel day.

The rate covers food and drink and includes most activities, like kayaking, forest hikes, and guided coastal safaris to see whales, eagles, bears, and sea lions. (Some activities, like spa treatments and helicopter rides, cost extra.) Travelers accustomed to preplanned itineraries may find it hard to give up the reins to the team, who schedule experiences day by day, depending on the mood of visitors. Each morning and evening, Credence, the lodge manager, approached us with her perpetual smile and tailored our next day according to how we were feeling. We were grateful for that flexibility in case we wanted to change course.

While there are many ways to explore through snorkeling, cold plunges, and barefoot forest hikes, not every moment is plush. For example, on my snorkeling excursion, a 5 millimeter wetsuit—with thick neoprene designed for waters between 45 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit—kept the cold at bay at first, but I did get chilly, even after the team wrapped me in blankets, fed me hot soup and tea, and cranked up the boat heater. I’d do it again in a heartbeat, but I get that not everyone would.

The location—where evergreen forests meet the ocean

Nimmo Bay sits in a remote inlet on the edge of British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest, where forests meet the sea. Getting there is part of the experience: We flew 45 minutes from Vancouver to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island, then boarded a 20-minute flight on a sturdy Grumman Goose seaplane dating to 1943 that used to transport military personnel (I was surprised by how smooth and comfortable the ride was). The seaplane soared over tree-covered landscapes until the lodge’s signature red roofs appeared amid the blanket of green.

There’s no cell service out here, and while the lodge offers Wi-Fi, don’t expect full bars or reliable streaming. You’re meant to unplug, and the setting makes it easy to want to.

The rooms—cabins in the mist and tide

Nimmo Bay has nine guest accommodations—some nestled in the forest, others built on stilts over the intertidal zone. We stayed in one of the latter (Cabin 1), which faced the sound and the helipad, offering a front-row seat to boats drifting in and out of the bay. A rushing river running by us, fed by the nearby waterfall, served as a natural sound machine at night.

The rooms aren’t flashy or overly designed, but they’re warm and comfortable, with wood floors and marble-lined showers and beautiful photographs of wildlife and landscapes that reflect the setting. Picture windows and French doors open onto a private veranda with Adirondack chairs. On our first morning, we sat bundled under blankets, watching the sound and the trees on nearby islands disappear into mist.

Our cabin was lofted, with a bedroom on the ground floor and another bed tucked under the eaves upstairs (we never went upstairs, but I can imagine a small family would find that layout useful). On one warmer evening, we needed to crack the windows for a breeze, but most nights in this region remain cool.

The food and drink—sea-to-table dining

Meals are served in a floating central dining area with a large wooden veranda, often at set times. Breakfast might include house-made maple sausage, subtly sweet and perfectly spiced, or a breakfast sandwich piled with egg, ham, avocado, and a savory jam (infused with spruce tips) on a soft brioche bun. One morning, a warm savory brioche topped with oyster mushrooms, asiago, and kale was particularly impressive.

Dinner is typically a set menu for all guests rather than à la carte, so if you have dietary restrictions, it’s worth flagging them early, especially if you’re not a fan of seafood. For example, the generous (and delicious) crab boil that’s a long-standing tradition at Nimmo Bay is a dream for seafood lovers but might catch others off guard.

The water here is as memorable as the food. It comes straight from the mountains and is perfectly drinkable, with a slight brown tint from the tannins in the surrounding cedar trees. As a lover of evergreen forests, I was charmed by the idea that I was literally drinking in the cedars around me (but for the less enthusiastic, bottled water is available).

Food lovers should take note that the lodge offers a Taste the Wild experience that enables guests to dive for uni or haul in prawn traps before enjoying a sea-to-table lunch on the boat, followed by a forest-inspired dinner at the lodge.

Staff and service—casual, muddy-boot hospitality

The staff at Nimmo Bay are casual, friendly, and a delight to be around—genuinely excited to be in this place and to share it with you. Most are Canadian, though you’ll find a few charming outliers, like Dave, the Irish bartender, and a couple of cheerful Kiwis.

Guides like Camellio and Emily, who took me on my snorkeling excursion, are passionate about this corner of the world, eager to share not only facts but also their own sense of reverence for the land. At the heart of it all are Becky and Fraser, who mingle with guests daily and are enjoying the setting themselves. I often spotted Fraser, who grew up in these woods, returning from one outdoor adventure or another, barefoot, legs muddy, shorts on, and grinning.

Accessibility

Nimmo Bay can accommodate guests with limited mobility. including wheelchair users, but it’s important to note that the uneven terrain and rustic dock access may limit full independence. It’s best to consult with the resort directly to understand the exact accommodations and mobility support.

Wellness—floating tubs, saunas, and more

Many of the wellness offerings are set in secluded parts of the forest, with the waterfall’s soothing, steady roar in the background. My 90-minute sound-bath massage was especially memorable: Emiline, the therapist, led me and my partner through an aural-guided meditation before our massage, layering sound with human touch in a way that felt grounding. At the end of the session, she read “Wild Geese” by Mary Oliver—which happens to be one of my favorite poems—and I left the treatment feeling moved on every level.

My partner and I visited a floating sauna and a floating soaking tub, and it felt luxurious to be left alone along the edge of the rainforest, taking in the wild scenery while remaining cozy and warm.

From one generation to the next

Nimmo Bay began in the early 1980s as a heli-fishing lodge founded by Fraser’s parents, Craig and Deborah Murray. Built on a dream and a love for the surrounding wilderness, the original lodge was one of the first in the region to offer access to the remote rivers and waterfalls of the Great Bear Rainforest. Today, Fraser and Becky have evolved that vision into something more immersive and inclusive, shifting from a fishing-focused retreat to a broader nature-based experience that includes wellness, culinary adventures, and conservation-minded exploration.