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Island Gems & Other Stories • JENMAN African Safaris
If there’s a place that feels like it was designed by nature to astonish and humble, it’s Madagascar. Debby’s recent familiarisation (FAM) trip took us from the highland capital of Antananarivo, through rainforest-covered hills and vibrant towns, to the tranquil, mirror-like waters of the Canal des Pangalanes—and finally by ferry to the island paradise of Île Sainte-Marie and then a short pirogue ride to Île Aux Nattes. Along the way, we encountered Madagascar’s iconic wildlife, untouched ecosystems, and a pace of life that reconnects you with nature and simplicity.
Day 1: Arrival in Antananarivo – ‘The City Of A Thousand’
Our journey began in Antananarivo, affectionately known as “Tana“. Perched in Madagascar’s Central Highlands, the capital is a bustling blend of French colonial charm, Malagasy culture, and chaotic energy. Our wonderful guide ‘Sol’ met us at the airport with a wonderful smile and endless patience as we navigated changing money and acquiring Data sim cards.
Soon, we were off – loaded up and headed into the ‘old city’.
Winding staircases, red-tiled roofs, and lively markets were a patchwork of colours and sounds viewed from the deck of our lovely Malagasy hotel, the Palissandre Antananarivo.
A delicious dinner gave us our first taste of Malagasy cuisine and a chance to get to know fellow travellers. It was a great start to what would affectionately become known as the ‘Aye Aye Connection’.
Day 2: Into the Wild – Andasibe and the Call of the Indri Indri
While Tana is often just a starting point for travellers, we made time to explore the historic upper town and the Queen’s Palace, where panoramic views and architectural gems tell the story of Madagascar’s royal past before starting our adventure to the East. After a number of interesting site inspections around Tana, we journeyed east toward Andasibe, a small village nestled on the edge of the rainforest. The drive itself is an experience—scenic highlands give way to lush valleys, roadside stalls selling everything from strips of Zebu, to pineapples and lychees, and every turn seemed to bring a new vista. It was slow going, but our driver Tuki, was careful and we all felt in very safe hands…. He was an absolute master behind the wheel of our bus, no matter what potholes the road threw at us.
Arriving late that afternoon, we were very happy to stretch legs with a night walk, and were rewarded by a lovely sighting on a cute Mouse Lemur and a number of other species.
Day 3: Andasibe NP – A Glimpse into the Indri Indri’s world
After a lovely breakfast, Sol and Tuki took us to the park entrance. The Andasibe-Mantadia National Park is a sanctuary for one of Madagascar’s most famous residents: the Indri Indri, the largest of the lemurs. Hearing their haunting calls echo through the misty forest was unforgettable—a mixture of whale song and siren that seemed to vibrate in our bones.
Accompanied once again by expert local guide William and his lovely daughter Maria, we soon spotted these black-and-white acrobats lounging in the canopy. We also encountered other endemic species: diademed sifakas leaping between branches, quirky chameleons camouflaged on mossy trunks, and fascinating frogs hiding in plain sight.
Our afternoon was busy viewing at several other property options in the area.
Day 4&5: Canal des Pangalanes – A Glimpse into Rural Life
We continued southeast, passing through Brickaville, a town often overlooked by tourists but full of character. Here, life moves at a slower rhythm. We passed the local market, where vendors offered cassava, handmade baskets, and bundles of vanilla pods. Children waved as we passed, and the smell of grilling meat and roadside sugarcane filled the air.
Stretching over 600 kilometres along the east coast, the Canal des Pangalanes is a tranquil maze of rivers, lakes, and man-made canals. Our boat glided through palm-fringed waters, where fishermen paddled traditional dugouts and village life unfolded on the banks.
We stayed at a fabulous rustic eco-lodge, the Palmarium Hotel, surrounded by nothing but birdsong, mischievous lemurs and rustling palms. One of the highlights was a night expedition by water, into the Akanin’ny Nofy forest, where we were able to see the elusive Aye Aye, a nocturnal lemur with oversized ears and a long middle finger it uses to tap trees in search of grubs (or scoop out the flesh of yummy coconuts). It was a surreal and thrilling encounter with one of the rarest primates on Earth.
Our following day was spent hiking through forests, meeting lemurs, chameleons and a lunch stop at the hotel’s sister property, Palmarium Beach Hotel.
Day 6: Along the Coastline – From Toamasina Northwards
We were then on the ‘water road’ once again, leaving Palmarium and heading to the huge port city of Toamasina. It was another long slow drive to our overnight stop, which was chosen for its location near the ferry to Île Sainte-Marie. The roadside antics of fellow travelling Malagasy was highly entertaining and added to the overall adventure.
Day 7 to 9: Final Stop – Paradise Found
The last leg of our journey was a ferry ride to Île Sainte-Marie, off Madagascar’s northeast coast. The island, once a haven for pirates, is now a peaceful escape with coconut-lined beaches and crystal-clear waters. We were taken through to the southernmost point after our arrival at the port. Here, an array of colourful pirogues waited to take us across to the delightful Sambatra Beach Lodge for 2 nights. The next two days brought stunning sunsets and seafood so fresh, it was as if it had swum straight onto our plates.
Reflections: Why Madagascar Should Be on Every Travel Itinerary
Madagascar is not just a destination, it’s an immersion. From the eerie songs of the Indri Indri to the glassy stillness of the Canal des Pangalanes, this FAM trip revealed a land unlike anywhere else. It’s a place where nature is still wild, culture is proudly preserved, and every corner holds a new surprise.
For travel professionals, Madagascar is both a challenge and a reward. Logistically complex, but immensely rich in experiences. With growing interest in eco-tourism and off-the-beaten-path adventures, it’s time Madagascar had a turn in the spotlight.
Important to Note:
- Responsible travel: Madagascar’s fragile environment benefits from informed, respectful tourism. Tourism is still in its infancy and tourists should be helping local peoples not to exploit their environments.
- Focus on wildlife: Lemurs, chameleons, and unique ecosystems are incredible to experience firsthand.
- Diverse experiences: The Jenman African Safaris’ Island Gems of Madagascar has it all….. Rainforest, waterways, rural towns, and beach life all in one trip!
- Longer stays: Travel takes time here—but the rewards are immense.
Madagascar—hear it, feel it, love it.
Ready to experience Madagascar’s magic for yourself? Visit the Island Gems tour page.
