Lake Skadar, Montenegro | A Travel Guide — ALONG DUSTY ROADS

How Long Do You Really Need?

Before getting properly started, it’s important to know that the sheer size of Lake Skadar can take people a little by surprise.

Depending on the season and levels, it covers between 370 and 530 km², is larger than Malta and one-third of it is actually in Albania. Most visitors won’t see all of it, and a single two or three-hour boat trip on the water only just skims the surface.

We had two nights set aside for the lake at the end of our Montenegro itinerary, with expectations mostly centred around that activity given it underpins most day trips and tours. Our first impressions on arrival in Virpazar on a very busy afternoon with too many people and too many touts were wholly negative though, and if we’d only had time for a pit-stop visit and a hot, crowded boat trip, then we honestly wouldn’t have got some of the fuss about Lake Skadar.

It was only by having more time to drive and walk around, head out on our boat in the early-morning stillness, unhurriedly sip local wine, and enjoy the surroundings in the soft light of sunset, that meant we left with such a wonderful impression.

Due to this, we recommend trying to spend at least a night here – and shaping your plans around an early morning boat trip.

Laka Skadar is a sensible and convenient first stop in Montenegro for those flying into Podgorica airport and making their way to the coast, but for those flying into Tivat airport it’s more likely to be visited later in your itinerary.

If you’ve only got enough time for a day trip or tour, we’d strongly suggest trying to schedule your time on the lake to fall outwith the10am – 3pm peak and trying to go out for a longer duration on the water. Also, reconcile yourself to the fact much of your experience will be centred around the tourism hub of Virpazar.

This tour is a very popular Kotor day trip option for the lake, which also includes time at Biograd NP.

For independent travellers, whether you’ve got a rental car or are relying on public transport, we’d suggest giving yourself two full days to see more and enjoy this truly beautiful part of Montenegro. If you’re staying for that amount of time or longer, we’d also recommend considering an accommodation base outside Virpazar to better enjoy the setting and the serenity that can be found.

We’ve shared all our picks on where to stay in and around Lake Skadar at the end of this post, but a few excellent recommendations are:

· AI Cottage | This lovely little wooden chalet (around an 8 minute drive from Virpazar) is where we stayed. Perfect for two, it had a small but adequate kitchen, a humungous handmade wooden bed, a woodburner for cooler nights, a large outdoor area, a nightly soundtrack of bells as the cows returned to the shed, and views out over the surrounding peaks.

. Hotel De’Andros | Lake Skadar’s most luxurious, modern hotel in the heart of Virpazar

· Lake Valley | Located around a 10 minute walk from the centre of Virpazar, Lake Valley is a collection of stone chalets centred around a large landscaped courtyard and inviting swimming pool – it would be a glorious place to stay during the hot summer months. The chalets themselves are simple but cosy with real wood accents and modern finishes. An excellent breakfast is provided, and it’s also possible to get dinner.

. Old House Leković | Located in Godinje, this is a spectacular old farmhouse that has been beautifully renovated with modern amenities whilst retaining the traditional details. The host goes out of their way to help in any way she can, the breakfast is wonderful and you can enjoy a glass of wine made from the farm’s vines whilst admiring the views.

. Panorama Stone Houses | Set at a higher vantage point than most properties, this charming stone cottage is the perfect cosy hideaway and offers the most incredible panoramic views of the lake – a really special spot for those with their own vehicle.