London’s best latkes: where to eat the crispy dish

Whether you’re looking to partake in celebrating Chanukah or just looking for a little crispy, starchy, deep-fried deliciousness to get you through the short, grey London days, there are plenty of places to turn to for a little bit of latke love this season. Originally thought to be made from ingredients like ricotta in Italy, according to historian Gil Marks, before evolving to use other root vegetables like turnips, or grains such as rye or buckwheat flour, in the interest of keeping kosher when frying in schmaltz or chicken fat, which was more widely available than oil.

Now, latkes are essentially synonymous with potatoes, often with onions, grated or shredded and mixed before being fried in vegetable oil until crispy. The ‘great debate’ for many when it comes to latkes is what to top them with: be it salt beef, lox (cured salmon), sour cream, or applesauce. This Ashkenazi (Eastern European Jewish diaspora) food can be found around London with pop-up events and menus like those at Tollington’s Fish Bar, Oren Deli and Honey & Co, as well as year-round. For those craving something crispy, carby and deep-fried, here are a few great spots to scratch that itch.

A latke is a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish potato pancake or fritter, made from grated potatoes

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Tongue & Brisket

Available on the menu year-round for £2.20, surely a freshly fried pick-me-up latke is just what the doctor ordered to combat any less-than-ideal winter weather in London. Crunchy, salty, and served in a little bag, a la McDonald’s hash brown but so much better, Tongue & Brisket’s latke is worth seeking out via one of their three central London locations. or on the go.

Run by the grandchildren of founder Bambos Georgiou, Georgiou began his salt beef-laden career by helping to set up Brass Rail in Selfridges before going on to open his own establishment, B&K Salt Beef Bar, which notably offers a choice between latkes or chips on their children’s menu.

Now with three locations in central London, Tongue & Brisket straddles Ashkenazi-deli-food alongside London sensibilities in delicious ways. Embrace all of the seasonal foods with one power move: order their ‘Christmas sandwich’ with house-roasted turkey, gravy mayo, crispy onions, spiced red cabbage, sage & onion stuffing & cranberry sauce and a side of latkes, seeking pleasure in alternating bites. Don’t forget to pick up some 21-day brined house-cured salt beef to take home for future you, too.