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The Slow Boat from Thailand to Laos
Taking the slow boat from Thailand to Laos is nothing short of a backpacker rite of passage. These river taxis which run along the Mekong River from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang are an exciting yet budget-friendly way to travel from Thailand to Laos.
Most travellers journey from A to B in Southeast Asia on board buses that weave down long, winding roads. The slow boat offers a great alternative to exhausting overland journeys and allows intrepid adventurers to journey at a slower pace whilst enjoying a cool breeze and stunning landscapes and, of course, ticking a box off their bucket list!
If you’re curious about the journey, read on brave adventurer! This article, put together with help from countless backpacking aficionados from our community will tell you everything you need to know about taking the slow boat from Thailand to Laos!
Related: (opens in new tab)
A Guide to Taking the Slow Boat from Thailand to Laos ⚓️
Disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. We always write our articles before checking if affiliate links are available.
What is the Slow Boat? 🛶
The slow boat is the name given to the water taxi which services transport between Thailand and Laos via the mighty Mekong. The Mekong acts as the spine of Southeast Asia and doubles up as one of the world’s most famous rivers. It connects Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Myanmar and China.
The journey from Thailand to Laos onboard the slow boat takes around two days in total, with boat travel time maxing out at around seven to eight hours each day. Passengers will overnight at Pak Beng village in Laos, allowing them a glimpse into local life.
The journey is famed for its breathtaking views which showcases jungle foliage, towering limestone karsts and authentic Southeast Asian scenery, from village communities to water buffalos.
Although many of the surrounding villages are pretty off the beaten path, make no mistake – the slow boat journey itself absolutely isn’t. The boats have been long used by locals heading from Thailand to Laos and over the last few decades they have been joined by crowds of backpackers looking to make the legendary journey.
👌 Looking for a Slow Boat Recommendation?
Nagi of Mekong are a reputable slow boat company for travellers looking for more comfort and assurance of safety. Their boats are serviced regularly and there are life vests on board for every passenger. Their tours include freshly cooked food on board and there are several stops at interesting sights along the way like Pak Ou Cave. The boats are comfortable and spacious compared to other vessels – there’s much more room to stretch your legs! Nagi of Mekong also organise your night’s accommodation in Pak Beng as part of the package. 👉 Reserve your place in advance here.
Where Does the Slow Boat Start and End? 📍
The slow boat departs near the northern-most Thailand–Laos border crossing. The border towns are called Chiang Khong (on the Thailand side) and Huay Xai (on the Laos side). The actual departure point is in Huay Xai (Laos) as passengers will need to complete their visa application before heading any further into Laos. (Read more about the different types of visa for Laos here.) The final destination of the slow boat is the pretty town of Luang Prabang in Laos where many travellers like to spend several days relaxing by the river, enjoying the markets, and eating delicious food (croissants!) before exploring further.
As the slow boat departs early in the morning from Huay Xai, most travellers choose to spend the night here before setting off on their slow boat adventure. If you are getting the budget slow boat, you will not be able to cross the border from Thailand the same day that your boat departs. This is because the public transport to/from the border does not run early enough in the morning. You will need to cross into Huay Xai the day before you travel.
Some of the premium slow boat companies will offer free pick-up from either Huay Xai (Laos side) or Chiang Khong (Thai side) on the day of your boat departure. They run their own transport and assist travellers coming from Chiang Khong with the border crossing and visa application process. This is a handy option for travellers who are shorter on time.
🛌 Looking for a guesthouse recommendation in Chiang Khong? Check out Sleeping Well Chiangkhong.
Types of Boat Available & Costs 🚤
The budget slow boat may be the best known and most popular way to travel down the river from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, but there are other options. There is also a speedboat (which we don’t recommend due to safety concerns) and premium cruises.
1. Budget Slow Boat – Cheapest Option for Backpackers
The slow boat is the most budget-friendly way to travel from Thailand to Laos by river. Expect the boat to hold around 100 people. There are basic facilities on board but you should be prepared to rough it!
Recycled car seats and benches make up the seating arrangements. You’ll find a small snack bar on board the slow boat which sells pot noodles, beer, soda and crisps. Bear in mind that prices here will be significantly higher than on land so you may want to stock up on snacks beforehand.
Lunch is not included but there are plenty of places in Huay Xai where you can order sandwiches for takeaway, including a couple of options close to the pier. If you stay in Huay Xai the night before, you can pre-order breakfast or a takeaway lunch at many of the cafés in town, allowing you to beat the pre-departure rush!
There are toilets on board but don’t expect anything fancy – they often run out of toilet paper (make sure to bring your own) and occasionally flood. If you need to do a number two, we recommend getting in there sooner rather than later! 💩
Slow boat packages are available to book at tour agencies across Northern Thailand, particularly in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. As these include the transport to the border (via bus) plus the boat trip from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang in Laos, they are a good option for travellers who want an easy way to get from Thailand to Laos. Expect to get picked up very early in the morning (about 5am)!
💰 COST: Since the COVID-19 pandemic, slow boat costs have risen dramatically. You can expect to pay from $65USD+ for a slow boat package (the transport bit only) if you book in Thailand. The cost does not include the fee for your Laos visa, food, nor your accommodation at the mid-way stop-off point of Pak Beng. The cheapest way to book the budget slow boat is to journey to Laos independently and reserve your space at the pier in Huay Xai. The cost is around 300,000LAK (approx. $14USD) for the full journey from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang.
Here’s a breakdown of the cost if you wanted to do everything DIY without a tour (as cheaply as possible):
- Local bus travel from Chiang Rai to the Chiang Khong border = approx. 70THB ($2USD)
- Tuk tuk to border from Chiang Khong intersection = 50THB per person (approx. $1.50USD)
- Shuttle bus over Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge = approx. 35THB per person ($1USD)
- Laotian visa = approx. $40USD (must be paid in cash in euros, US dollars, Laos kip or Thai baht – there is a cashpoint at the border.)
- Shuttle from the border to the pier = approx. 100THB per person ($3USD)
- Slow boat ticket purchased directly at pier = approx. 200,000 (to Pak Beng only) or 300,000 kip (to Luang Prabang) ($9USD – $14USD)
- Accommodation in Pak Beng (mid-way point) = dorm room accommodation from approx. $10USD
Some suggested hostels in Pak Beng
If you take the normal slow boat, your accommodation in Pak Beng will not be included as part of the package. Here are some hostels which have good reviews:
- Cheapest option: Mekong Backpackers – Basic dorm beds from $8 USD.
- Budget option: Monsavanh Guesthouse – Close to the slow boat pier, double and twin private rooms from $15 USD.
- Budget option: Janh Ya Phone Guesthouse – Clean and friendly guesthouse with attached restaurant from $18 USD.
- Premium option: The Sanctuary Pak Beng Lodge – Beautiful hotel with stunning views over the Mekong. Private rooms from $90 USD.
- Luxury option: Le Grand Pakbeng – The best hotel in Pak Beng. Beautiful location, swimming pool and views. You might want to stay for more than one night! Prices from $145 US for a private villa.
Laos Visa Info: Good to Know! 💰
If you use US dollars to purchase your visa, the notes will be inspected. If they are ripped or creased, they are likely to be refused. It is worth making sure that you carry both Thai baht and Lao kip for the journey as some costs can only be covered in the local currency e.g. shuttle/tuk-tuk rides.
2. Speedboat – Not Recommended
If you don’t like the idea of sitting on the slow boat for two days, there is also the option to hop on board a speedboat. While the journey only takes six hours, we do not recommend it due to the lackadaisical approach to safety.
While the drivers seem to wear motorcycle helmets, the passengers don’t always appear to be in safety gear. Life jackets and helmets are sometimes provided but there is no guarantee. There are no facilities on board the boat, however, there will be a stop for food halfway.
The speedboat holds six to eight passengers plus the crew and there is no roof. This means that you are completely exposed to the elements, be they scorching sun or rain. When water levels are low, the speedboat can be dangerous as it is easy to hit objects, making for a bumpy and uncomfortable ride.
If you do opt to take the speedboat from Chiang Khong to Luang Prabang, bear in mind that they don’t always run in the off-season. Despite this, a tour agency may still sell you tickets, leaving you high and dry once you’ve handed over your money. To avoid this, book your tickets directly from the pier in Chiang Khong so you know for certain the speedboat is running.
💰 COST: It costs in the region of 750,000-1,000,000 kip ($38-51USD) for a trip on the speedboat. Bear in mind that this method of transport will be easier to arrange if you are travelling with a group and can fill the whole boat.
3. Premium Cruise – Perfect for Travellers Seeking More Comfort
It is also possible to make the journey down the Mekong River on board a premium cruise boat. If you’re looking for a more comfortable experience and want more space for the kids to roam around, a premium cruise could be for you. These boats are also more equipped in terms of safety, with life vests on board for everyone and boats that are serviced regularly. If you’re travelling as a family with children or you’re at all concerned about safety, the extra cost can be worth it for peace of mind.
These premium cruises stop at a number of points of interest along the way. This is great if you are looking to learn more about Lao culture and the lives of those who live in rural villages. It is also a good way to break up the journey—ideal if you have little ones in tow!
Depending on the boat, they will usually operate on Wednesday–Sunday or Friday–Monday schedules. Meals are included for the two days on board, there are clean toilets, tables for playing games, a sunroof and much more legroom on the boat. Only a limited number of people are allowed to board at any time, which avoids the ‘tin of sardines’ experience that can be more common on the budget boats. There’s also the option to include your accommodation in Pak Beng if you want everything organised for you.
Recommended Tour
- Spacious & comfortable.
- Boats regularly serviced. Life vests for every passenger.
- Freshly cooked lunches & refreshments.
- 1 night’s accommodation in Pak Beng.
💰 COST: The premium cruise can cost between $140-450USD per person, depending on the specific cruise. You will also be required to reserve your space in advance. Cruises sometimes include a fancy homestay and/or a visit to the Pak Ou Caves in the itinerary.
How to Book the Thailand to Laos Slow Boat 🎟️
There are several ways to book the slow boat:
At your accommodation / At a local tour agency: Both of these options will add a commission to the price of the boat ticket. However, if you are booking from Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai or Pai, transport to the pier will be included. It is a hassle-free way to arrange the journey.
- Independently (direct at the pier): Taking the slow boat independently is the cheapest way to make the journey, however, if you want a guaranteed seat, it is worth buying your ticket in advance for the following day and staying overnight in the area.
- On this website: You can book our recommended Nagi of Mekong Superior Cruise via South East Asia Backpacker.
Crossing the Thai–Lao Border 🛂
Let’s address the elephant in the room – the slow boat doesn’t actually depart from Thailand so you’ll need to cross the border into Laos before you can board the boat! The border is accessed from the Thai town Chiang Khong.
Getting to Chiang Khong
Most travellers usually start their journey from Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai or Pai. If you have purchased a slow boat package transport to Chiang Khong will be included.
Independent travellers will need to make their own way there. The easiest way to do this is to catch a bus to Chiang Khong. If you are planning to cross the Thai/Lao border the same day, tell your bus driver. They will drop you at the intersection. From there, you can hop in a tuk tuk to immigration. This will save you time and money!
👉 Read More: How to Get to Chiang Khong
Thailand (Chiang Khong)/Laos (Huay Xai) Border Crossing
Once you arrive at the border, you’ll need to exit Thailand. After you have been stamped out of the country, you need to hop on the bus that travels across the bridge (Thai–Laos Friendship Bridge IV). Buy your tickets at the immigration office once you’ve been stamped out.
After you disembark the bus at Laos immigration, you need to fill in the forms for your Laos visa and supply the photograph. Your paperwork will be checked, visa issued and then you’ll be given a receipt. You are required to go to a different desk to pay for your visa (approx. $40USD).
Once the bureaucracy is tied up, all that is left for you to do is to take onward transport to the city of Huay Xai. If you are heading to the city it should cost 100THB per person, however, some taxi drivers will likely try to trick you into paying more. Ideally, band together with a group of travellers and tackle the negotiation together to avoid getting ripped off.
Doing the Journey in Reverse? (Luang Prabang to Huay Xai) ⬅️
If you are doing the journey in reverse and travelling from Laos to Thailand via the slow boat, the most popular departure point is Luang Prabang. However, some people also depart from Pak Beng. Fewer tourists travel the route in this direction so this is great for those looking to experience the slow boat without the bulk of the crowds. Bear in mind that you will be travelling upstream against the flow of the river, meaning that while the journey will still take two days, your arrival time may be slightly later. On average, you can expect to be on board for an extra 1-2 hours per day, depending on the flow of the river.
Slow Boat Itinerary: Huay Xai to Luang Prabang ⏰
- The boat departs Huay Xai at around 10.30 am and the journey on the first day will take around 7–8 hours. Travel tip: Be at the boat at least half an hour before departure to guarantee good seats. The engine at the back is very noisy and the petrol fumes can be suffocating!
- Once you board the boat, take off your shoes and backpack and store them under the deck.
- Arrive in Pak Beng around sunset. This is the main stop, however, if you want to get off between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang along the Mekong River, you can.
- Depart in Pak Beng for your overnight stay. You can either book somewhere to stay online in advance or barter with the locals once you arrive. Generally, prices are negotiable. The following accommodation options in Pak Beng are well-recommended by travellers:
Pick-up and Drop off in Pak Beng 🛺
Most of the guesthouses in town offer a free pick-up and drop off service at their accommodations. Depending on where you have booked, you could be sharing your transport with people from the premium cruises or budget slow boats. Some guesthouses share transport, particularly if they are located close to each other. You may have to wait a while until the vehicle is full before you leave. This process can be chaotic and time-consuming. If you’d prefer to avoid it, it only takes around 10–15 minutes to walk into town and you will often beat the hordes of backpackers waiting to check in! The following morning, premium cruises tend to depart Pak Beng a little earlier than the budget boats so make sure you get to the pier in good time. This can sometimes mean walking into town rather than waiting for the shuttle if you are staying at budget accommodation. It is possible to stay a couple of nights in Pak Beng (specify you are disembarking at Pak Beng when you purchase your ticket at the pier) and then pay for the last leg of your journey in Pak Beng once you’re ready to leave. A ticket for this final section starts from 200,000 kip (approx. $10USD).
- The boats will depart Pak Beng sometime between 8 am and 9 am so make sure you’re ready! If you’re an early bird, head out early to see the almsgiving ceremony at sunrise. You can also grab breakfast or purchase lunch from a local restaurant to enjoy on board the boat later. (Be aware that you may not be in the same seat as you were the day before. More people are likely to have boarded at Pak Beng and there are no seat reservations.)
- You will arrive a couple of kilometres outside Luang Prabang in the afternoon.
- Tuk tuks and pick-up trucks wait for arrivals on each pier. Expect to pay somewhere around 20,000 kip ($1USD) for the short journey into town. If you have booked a premium slow boat cruise, transfer in Luang Prabang will be included.
What to Bring on the Slow Boat 📸
- Snacks
- Water
- Entertainment e.g. book, phone, tablet etc.
- Camera
- Powerbank
- Sunglasses
- Sun cream
- Passport
- Jacket or jumper
- Ear plugs
- Toilet paper
- Hand sanitiser
- Blanket
- Cash for visa (or card to withdraw money at border)
Tips for Taking the Slow Boat 👍🏼
- Be Prepared for the Visa Process
Do a bit of research beforehand so you know whether you need to apply for a visa in advance. Be aware that the available entry points differ for the eVisa and VOA!
- Arrive at the Port at Least 30 Minutes Early
This means that you have a better chance of getting to choose your seat. This is recommended if you are travelling in a group and want to sit together. Some seats have curtains alongside them to block out the sun so make sure to try and grab one of them if your skin is prone to burning!
Some travellers have reported people attempting to sell rooms in Pak Beng to those on the slow boat. They try to persuade backpackers to panic-reserve a room with the threat that all accommodations are nearly fully booked. This is a scam and you will end up paying well over the odds!
- Don’t Exchange Money at the Border
The exchange rate at the border is a rip-off. To pay for your visa, withdraw money at the ATM or make sure you have the correct amount in the appropriate currency beforehand.
- Avoid Buying a Local SIM on the Boat
Local SIM cards are overpriced on the boat. You’ll pay around $10USD on board compared to around $4USD on land. It is far better to buy when you arrive on Laotian soil – most of the time you’ll get no connection on the boat anyway!
- Wear Clothes You Can Layer
The slow boat gets surprisingly chilly, especially in the mornings. Unless you are on one of the premium cruises, you won’t be provided with a blanket. Wear clothes that you can layer up to keep warm. There is a lot of mountain scenery en route and it can be a few hours before the sun rises above the landscape! If you’re on the shadowy side on the boat, you could be cold all day!
Also read:
Slow Boat FAQs 🤔
How long does the slow boat from Thailand to Laos take?
The slow boat takes around two days.
How do I get a slow boat from Laos to Thailand?
Ask your accommodation to arrange it for you or book your space directly at the pier a day in advance.
Does the slow boat to Laos run every day?
The boats operate every day, except for the luxury cruises, which tend to operate on Wednesday–Sunday or Friday–Monday schedules. The slow boat departs around 10.30 am from Huay Xai on day one and between 8–9 am from Pak Beng on day two.
How much is the slow boat to Luang Prabang?
Tickets for the budget slow boat start at 300,000 kip (approx. $14USD) when bought at the pier. Tickets will be higher when purchased at accommodation options owing to their commission. Bear in mind that the high-class cruises can empty your wallet, with some cruises exceeding $450USD!
How much is the visa and what are the requirements to enter Laos?
It depends on your nationality. Most people will pay around $40USD – check out our Laos visa guide for more information.
What is the best time of year to do the slow boat from Thailand to Laos?
High season starts around October/November and runs through to around February/March. This is the most popular time to do the slow boat with the best weather. The weather is sunny and dry and there is little chance of rain. If you plan to take a premium boat during this time of year (such as Nagi of Mekong) you should book at least a week in advance as seats do get booked up.
Things start to slow down in April and May when it gets very hot and the water level of the Mekong River is very low due to no rains.
The whole of June / July / August is the rainy season and there will be fewer departures for the premium cruises (some might stop altogether). Bear in mind that rains (heavy downpours) are highly likely during this time of year.
In September, many of the premium boat companies take their boats out of the water for maintenance and to get ready for the high season starting in October.
Does the slow boat run every day in the rainy season?
Yes, the basic slow boat will still be running. However, you should be aware that the journey can take a little longer in wet weather. For the premium cruises like Nagi of Mekong, there will be fewer departure dates throughout the rainy season, May – August.
How do I get from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai, the place where the slow boat departs?
The cheapest and easiest way is to jump on the red local bus headed to Chiang Khong from Chiang Rai Bus Station. It runs between 7.30 am and 4.30 pm every day and costs around 90 THB. Tell the driver you would like to go to the Thai/Laos border and they will drop you at the intersection. From there, hop in a tuk tuk and pay the 50THB per person to get to the border.
At the border, get your exit stamp and take the bus to Laos to get your visa. There will be tuk tuks waiting outside to bring you to Huay Xai. These drivers can be a little unscrupulous so make sure you tackle the negotiations as part of a group. You shouldn’t pay more than 100THB per person. The whole journey will take you around 4 hours but do allow for delays.(Thanks to Rachel Villamayor Huang for the info!)
A Must Do Adventure ✅
If you do decide to hop on the slow boat from Thailand to Laos, you are unlikely to be disappointed! This rustic adventure showcases some of the best Southeast Asian scenery and provides the opportunity to meet plenty of your fellow travellers while getting from one country to another.
Choose the right boat for you and arrange your ticket either through a tour company or independently. This epic river cruise down the Mekong is sure to be a highlight of your trip!
Have you taken the slow boat from Thailand to Laos? Share your experience with our community of backpackers in the comments below!
📸 Header image credit: Úna O’Brien.
Sheree Hooker | Editor @ South East Asia Backpacker + Winging The World
Sheree is the awkward British wanderluster behind Winging The World, a blog designed to show that even the most useless of us can travel. Follow Sheree’s adventures as she blunders around the globe, falling into squat toilets, getting into cars with machete men and running away from angry peacocks. In recent years, Sheree has also taken on the role of editor at South East Asia Backpacker.
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